What do the Smithsonian, the Tucson Museum of Art, The Santa Fe Indian Art Market, and Baker City’s Crossroads Carnegie Art Center have in common? Phillip Charette. His elaborate Yup’ik masks, mixed-media sculptures, or monotype prints have been exhibited in each space, among other national galleries. But Phillip calls Baker City home. He lives in town, makes his art in a small studio, and acts as Board Chair of the Crossroads Art Center.

“I’ve shown in galleries from New York to Seattle, and Crossroads is on par with any of them, as far as being a great space for featuring my work,” Phillip says. “This town has a real natural, comfortable feel to it. Everything slows down here so I can really work on the art and be part of the overall community at the same time.”
Phillip’s passion for the Yup’ik nation of southwest Alaska’s Bristol Bay extends much deeper than the artistic. His mother was a member of the Yup’ik tribe, his father French-Canadian. Phillip grew up surrounded by his grandparents in a traditional Yup’ik setting.

"Rather than run around outside playing with the other kids, I spent most of my free time as a young man sitting around listening to the elders' stories," recalls Phillip. "One explanation for my fascination with this culture and its art is my Yup'ik name, Aarnaquq. It means 'the dangerous one.' Traditionally, We believe in reincarnation so my family identified that I had the spirit of my great-great grandfather, meaning that I have a healing spirit. In order to carry on the ancient Yup'ik traditions in a contemporary sense I was challenged by family members and elders to make masks; it is the responsibility of our healers to make masks."

As a Yup'ik member, Phillip had unique access to the Smithsonian's collection of Yup'ik masks. He took advantage of that privilege and handled each one, gleaning from them affirmation, inspiration, and direction. The masks combine a mixed medium of clay and wood with feathers and paint as adornments. Their wild, bold, and organized asymmetry create a haunting, authentic presence, even in the airy, brightly lit gallery at Crossroads. “Before I went into art full-time, I worked as an administrator in academics,” says Phillip. With a masters in Education from Harvard, his career path was far from the art world. “The pace of everything was overwhelming and it began to negatively effect my health to the point where my doctor ordered me to leave the job. We moved to Baker City and I started working in the arts full-time.”

Baker City’s surrounding landscape, the low cost of living and abundance of affordable studio space, and that all-important slower pace of life is beginning to attract artists. The Crossroads Carnegie Art Center has been a pivotal player in the burgeoning arts community.

100 years ago this spring, the Carnegie Library opened its doors to Baker City. Funded by Andrew Carnegie, 1,689 similar libraries were constructed in 1,642 American towns between the years of 1899-1917. The library became home to the Crossroads Arts Center in 1971 and operated as a community arts center until closing its doors in 1988 due to a degraded structural interior. But Carnegie’s legacy of public learning space recently received a strong boost from the Baker community.

After a substantial remodel that took over six years, the Crossroads Carnegie Arts Center reopened in April 2008 with gallery space, a dance studio, a small performing arts studio, painting space, and pottery wheels and kilns. Six days a week the warm yellow light pours out of the original windows and onto downtown’s Auburn Ave as children dance upstairs or fence downstairs, visitors wander among the showing artwork, and adults tend to open-studio painting projects in the basement. The former librarian’s office now serves as a catering kitchen for the center’s many events.

It’s a delicate balance of small-town charm and big-city shine. Phillip’s nationally recognized masks that sell for thousands of dollars hang in the same gallery as a local, retired Alaskan bush pilot who shows his series of 35mm photographs that he transformed into vivid color scans. Wax droplets from a children’s class texture the century-old Douglas fir floorboards and volunteers shuffle around the kitchen in preparation for a community event. Not many art galleries can get away with such a mix of form and function, but isn’t that what art is all about?

Phillip Charette
www.yupikmask.com

Crossroads Carnegie Arts Center
10 AM to 5 PM
Monday-Saturday
2020 Auburn Avenue
Baker City, Oregon 97814
(541) 523-5369

www.crossroads-arts.org

 

Ten years ago, Portlandite Steve Folkestad stumbled upon Baker City with his motorcycle and a few friends. He knew nothing about Baker, the roads, or that little canyon down the way. But he had three hotel rooms at the Geyser and the guys were ready to ride. That weekend of two-wheeled exploring has grown into the annual Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally, a June event that hopes to draw 10,000 riders from around the country to its tenth anniversary celebration this summer.

Steve began saddling up the iron horse in 1970 when he bought a Yamaha R-5 350 twin. Since then he has ridden all over the northwest and burned through dozens of bikes. While there are myriad tour options on the sweeping, twisting, climbing roads out of Baker, Steve will ride us through the Rally’s four featured tours, open all summer.

Readers beware: If Steve were in charge of Baker City’s slogan it would read:

“Historic Baker City, Home of the Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally
Where the roads and women are curvy,
The steaks are tender
And the drinks are stiff.”
Best to keep him on the bike.

Hells Canyon Scenic Byway, 250 miles

This easy day ride follows the nationally designated scenic byway. The route circles the Wallowa Mountains by way of Halfway and Joseph then north through the small towns of Enterprise, Lostine, and Wallowa.

“The route has thousands of curves, plenty of adrenaline, and little traffic,” Steve says. “Start along the Powder River, stop by the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center if you haven’t been there before, then continue to Hole in the Wall rest stop to stretch the legs while contemplating this geologic oddity. Grab breakfast in Richland or quirky Halfway.”

Beyond Halfway, the road becomes a paved Forest Service stretch as it climbs over a pass toward Joseph. “This has lots of switchbacks and ‘over-the-cliff’ moments so you want to be on your best behavior through here,” suggests Steve.

Take a break at the Hells Canyon Overlook and pick out the Seven Devils on the horizon. Before moving on, amaze your partners by naming all seven: He Devil, She Devil, Twin Imps, Devil’s Throne, Tower of Babel, Goblin, Ogre. Feeling sufficiently knowledgeable, continue toward Joseph.

“The big corner preceding Joseph is one of those turns you’ll never forget,” Steve says. “The Wallowas come into view behind the little town of Joseph like some scene out of the Swiss Alps. Every rider remembers that corner.”

A detour down Wallowa Lake Road in Joseph leads to a vertigo-challenging rest stop. Take the Mt. Howard Tram 8,000’ up to the peak for a birds-eye view of the route. Wander the streets of Joseph for dining, shopping, and art galleries.
After Joseph, a great stretch of motorcycle road leads through the Wallowa Valley and the mountain towns of Enterprise, Lostine, and Wallowa. Finish the loop on I-84 from La Grande if Historic Baker’s bars are calling your name, or keep meandering via Highway 203 through Medical Springs.

Ghost Town Loop

“This is a lot of people’s favorite, as it offers a variety of terrain, cultural gems, and an option for challenging riding,” says Steve.And it starts with a bang.

“The opening stretch over Dooley Mountain and down to the Burnt River on Hwy 245 is one of my Top 10 rides ever,” continues Steve. “Twisting and curving, but smooth and lightly trafficked. It’s a must-do. Along the Burnt River, the road opens up with long, sweeping curves and plenty of sight distance. The speed freaks really love it down here.”

At the town of Unity, the road passes through dense forests to arrive at Austin Junction. Then it’s on to Sumpter, the center of gold mining in Oregon. “Keep an eye out for the old dredge that dug up all the tailings piles you pass through here. Operating until the 1960s, Sumpter pulled out more gold than all of California combined.”

“We usually eat breakfast or lunch here. The butt-challenged have the option of returning the way we came. But the adventurous trek on toward the ghost towns ahead. Granite has a few dozen residents and is that rare ghost town with a gas option. From Granite to Ukiah you can have all the fun you want on curvy, empty roads, but it’s remote so be careful.”

From Ukiah, follow the Grande Ronde River for a smooth valley ride. Soak aching rider muscles at the Lehman Hot Springs. “The clothing challenged will especially like it here,” says Steve.

The final stretch has two options: the quick plow down I-84 from Hilgard State Park or the scenic route through Union, across I-84 and down through Haines. Many bikers enjoy the Frontier Tavern watering hole in Haines or a longer pause to fill the stomach tank at the Haines Steakhouse where you can trade the motorcycle seat for a real log booth.

Mountain Loop, 210 miles

Warning: Steve recommends this route for advanced riders only.
“This route really takes the road less traveled,” says Steve. “It is made up of one-lane Forest Service roads with no center line, no guardrails, and no one to save you. But, of course, the beauty is stunning and you get it all to yourself.”

“I always stop in Prairie City for gas and a bite at Little Chuck’s Diner for friendly, good food cooked on a grill. From the town center, take a left onto FS Rd 62 and continue south for a climb into the Strawberry Mountains and their remote, dense forests. You won’t see anybody or anything but cattle.”

From the Strawberry Mountains, continue 28 miles on Forest Service Rd 62 until arriving at FS 16 junction. Go left on FS 16 and roll to the south of Lookout Mountain and the Monument Rock Wilderness, crossing the North Fork Malhuer River and Little Malheur River. From the summit at Murray Hill descend to Hwy 26, entering it 19 miles east of Unity. Then head north to the Hwy 245 Junction, bear right on Hwy 245 and follow the Burnt River. Continue on 245 over Dooley Mountain for one of Steve’s favorite rides. Turn right on Hwy 7 in Salisbury for the seven-mile homestretch into Baker City.

Devil’s Tail, 182 miles out and back

The signature ride of the Hell’s Canyon Motorcycle Rally, this is the shortest and least complicated. The basic idea is simple: ride into the deepest part of the deepest canyon in the country. That’s right, the Snake River has out-cut the Colorado River to make this gouge deeper than the Grand Canyon, though not as sheer and vertical.

The ride leaves from Baker heading toward Richland. First-timers to the area will want to detour through the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center to learn about the real road-trippers who first journeyed out here on their horse and wagons. That should cure any belly-aching about butts aching. Grab breakfast at Annie’s or the Shorthorn in Richland. Then climb over to Halfway before the canyon descent begins.

“You must pull into Scotty’s Gas Stop in the town of Pine Creek between Halfway and the river,” says Steve. “Not only do they serve good food, it’s the only gas for the remainder of the ride.”

“Now it’s on to Oxbow and the famous Devil’s Tail, 22 miles of biker nirvana. At the dam, find your choice: You can trade the bike and pavement for a jet-boat and rapids or spin around for a quick return to Baker City.” Jet-boat tours leave from the dam for further exploration of the powerful Snake River. While the ride can easily be done in a half-day, a slow tour and/or jet-boat ride can extend it to full-day length.

Wild and Scenic: two words that play well together. As a pair, they define a federal designation that protects specific creeks and rivers around the country from roads and bank-side development. Gaining Wild and Scenic status for a river is like winning an Academy Award. And, as with the Oscar winners, some rivers are more household names than others. The Yellowstone River, the Missouri River, the Colorado River are national icons, while the John Day, Wallowa, and Grande Ronde garner more regionalized attention, though they are winners, nonetheless.

Many states have only a handful of such designations. Within two hours of Baker City, water enthusiasts can find over fifteen Wild and Scenic rivers accounting for hundreds of miles of rapids, pools, fish and wildlife habitat, and long, lazy floats.

To take a canoe, raft, fishing rod, inner-tube, drift boat, or kayak down a Wild and Scenic river is a refreshing, pristine experience. Whether you want an adrenaline-pumping wave train ride through Hell’s Canyon of the Snake or a solitary drift down the John Day, northeast Oregon is a river lovers’ playground. Couple all the options and scenery with sparkling high-desert weather and hardly another soul on the water, and you might quit your job and become a full-fledged river rat. There’s even a riverside train for visitors who don’t want to get their feet wet. And jet boats motor up the rapids of the Snake for an upstream thrill.

Since most of these rivers are free-flowing, they depend on spring and early summer snowmelt and rain to fill their basins. Rafting companies generally work between April and July, while the fishing season extends into the fall.

The following lists the six most popular Wild and Scenic rivers within a few hours of Baker City.

John Day River fish, raft, drift

The John Day is the second longest free-flowing river in the conterminous United States and the longest in Oregon. Its 280 miles of Class II riffles and desert canyon scenery make it one of the most enjoyable ways to welcome summer. Multi-day trips are the best way to experience the full beauty with options on the Upper or Lower sections, ranging from three to five days, depending on the outfitter. Birders will enjoy the spring migration and anglers can count on excellent bass fishing and a large population of wild Chinook and steelhead. Visit historical sites of the Tenino Indians interspersed along the banks.

John Day River Fishing
Oregon Rafting
Oregon Whitewater
Arrowhead Adventures

Minam River fish, horseback

The best way to experience this hidden gem that flows from deep within the Eagle Cap Mountains and Wilderness is to book a few nights at the Minam River Lodge. The only way to get to the lodge is on horseback – your own, or guided by the lodge – or by prop plane that lands on a grass airstrip. Once arrived, the calm of the backcountry takes over, mixed with the comforts of a private cabin or teepee rental. Spend the day hiking, horseback riding, or fishing for brook and rainbow trout. Minam River Lodge

Wallowa River fish, raft, drift, train

Beginning at Wallowa Lake in the picture-perfect town of Joseph, the Wallowa River flows about 50 miles to its confluence with the Grande Ronde River (also Wild and Scenic). The angling along the stretch goes from easy roadside access to hidden canyons only the most dedicated fishermen reach. Steelhead season peaks in March and April, and the newly renovated Wallowa-Union Railroad offers a unique opportunity to take the historic train eight miles upriver and be dropped off for a day of unmatched fishing.

If you’re not the fishing type, a great way to enjoy the Wild and Scenic Wallowa River valley is aboard the Eagle Cap Excursion Train. The old railroad links the towns of Elgin, Wallowa, Enterprise, and Joseph on its course through the Grande Ronde and Wallowa River valleys.

Eagle Cap Excursion Train
The Fly Fishing Place - Wallowa River
Wilderness Fishing Trips - Wallowa River
Winding Waters Rafting

Grande Ronde River fish, raft, drift, train, kayak

Draining the Blue Mountains, the Grande Ronde has it all – rapids, pool, fish, wilderness scenery, and even some easy access points. The current moves fast but without the heart-pounding drops found on the Snake and Owyhee Rivers. It’s a great introduction to whitewater rafting, whether enjoyed on a day trip or for a more committed 3-5 day paddle. April through July offers the best season for rafting or canoeing.

The Eagle Cap Excursion Train also trundles down the Grande Ronde valley.

Helfrich River Adventures
Grande Ronde River Flyfishing Guide
Oregon Rafting Trips
Oregon Whitewater Adventures

Snake River fish, raft, kayak, jet boat

The Granddaddy of them all for northeast Oregon, at least, the Snake cuts the deepest gorge in the nation, ahead of the Grand Canyon. A powerful flow that has traveled across western Wyoming and all of Idaho thunders down the border between Oregon and Idaho before joining the mighty Columbia. A couple Class IV drops provide thrills for rafters, kayakers, and especially jet boaters who take them on heading upstream. Beach campsites along the way and enormous scenery make this a favorite among multi-day river rafters.

Hells Canyon Adventures

Owyhee River fish, raft, kayak

Easily the most remote river on this list and one of the most in the entire country, the Owyhee has that allure among river rafters reserved only for the most revered runs. The upper section hits Class V rapids, the middle pushes Class V at the best flows, and the lower Class III section, though much easier, still offers some adrenaline. Guided trips leave April through July and generally last between four and nine days. If that sounds like a lot of time in a steep-walled canyon, perhaps the natural riverside hot springs will seal the deal.

Momentum River Expeditions

No one likes a tough decision. Especially when you have to choose between two things you love. When spring rolls around and releases your favorite golf course from winter’s frigid grip, the Tiger in you imagines that first tee box, fairways clean of divots, and greens softened by the slow thaw. But your adrenaline-seeking side still wants to head to the hills where the spring corn skiing in t-shirts begs for a few more turns. It’s the Modern Mountain Man’s dilemma.

Fortunately, in Baker County, you can satisfy both urges and all for less than the cost of a typical round at a swanky California course or a Tahoe lift ticket. March means dual sport month at Baker City’s Quail Ridge Golf Course ($28 green fees) and Anthony Lakes Ski Resort ($39 lift ticket). Take advantage of longer days with a round of 18 in the morning, lunch at the clubhouse, then an afternoon of spring skiing at Anthony Lakes. Depending on the color, those polyester golf pants might even make for a good ski layer.

Quail Ridge Golf Course opens on March 1. Billy Cunningham, the course’s owner-operator for six years, is an agronomist by training and his grass work is beginning to pay off. The Par 70, 5,975 yard, slope 120 course sits in the gently rolling terrain above Baker City and at the edge of the Elkhorn Mountain foothills. The front-nine was constructed in 1936, while the back-nine is a youthful 10 years old, designed by Bill Robinson. Subtle differences like pushed-up soil greens on the front nine and PGA-style sand greens on the backside add some nuanced variation to a round of 18. It’s like Baker City itself: a little old, a little new, and guaranteed to be full of character and scenery.

Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort stays open into April. The family-run ski resort is arguably the best-kept powder secret in the country. One chair lift serves twenty-one runs that drop over 1000 vertical feet. The dry climate in eastern Oregon, coupled with the 9,000-foot peaks of the Blue Mountains results in a powder so dry the Anthony Lakes crew has to occasionally water it down around the lifts. A Cat-ski operator and full guide service leads adventure seekers into the backcountry bowls and chutes within sight of lift-accessed groomers. At $39 for a day pass, even a post-golf afternoon is worth the easy 17-mile drive from Baker City. Especially after a half-dozen runs when you find yourself having a beer and burger at the Starbottle’s Bar watching spring training baseball on the big screen.

Quail Ridge Golf Course Golfer’s Special If you’re only here for the links, a three-day tour hits three completely different courses, all of which can be played for under $300, and that includes two nights in a hotel. Pendleton’s Wild Horse Country Club runs a cool $35 and Buffalo Peaks out of Union costs $31. And like most of northeast Oregon, you get the run of the place – a golfing pioneer.

Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort Wild Horse Country Club Buffalo Peaks Golf Course

 

The next great American trail system is taking shape and hardly anyone knows it. In northeast Oregon’s stunning Blue Mountains a few locals have put together their heads, maps, and decades of backpacking, horse-packing, hunting, fishing, and rafting experience to devise an 870-mile loop trail set to open in spring 2010. The Blue Mountain Heritage Trail (BMHT) will connect Main Streets, wilderness areas, mountain tops, rivers, ghost towns, and historic sites in a loop as much about the people and cultural legacy of this remote corner of the American West as it is about the physical enjoyment of the area’s pristine nature.

Unlike building a new highway or a library in downtown, a trail lives out in the wilderness, an escape from people and limelight. That’s why we love them so much. That’s what brought Loren Hughes and Dick Hentze into the Blue Mountains for decades. But before being put onto a map, the BMHT idea lived in these two men’s heads for decades.

‘Then Loren and I started talking about it a long time ago,” says Hentze. “At one point, I realized someone has to get this vision on paper. I had a computer mapping program. So we did a little here, a little there and started forming this circle. At first, it was just a matter of getting something on paper and then it grew on its own.”

“So now we have what we call the ‘green line’ – the traditional backcountry trail of 870 miles. Then we have the ‘red line,’ close to 800 miles of alternate routes, that connects the green line to the communities and services. It brings the economic exponent into this.”

This northeast corner of Oregon has not seen the heavy development of the west side of the state (Portland is a four-hour drive) or the Boise corridor two hours east. But a recent report on travel and tourism in the state showed that the sparsely populated, scenically abundant eastern portion of Oregon ranked fourth in the state, at over $100 million dollars in travel-related revenue. Clearly, outdoor-related travel, equipment usage, and local recreation are a huge economic engine and the BMHT hopes to capitalize on that, building on a strong hunting and fishing base to draw in other recreationalists like hikers, backpackers, horse packers, bikers, and river enthusiasts.
Mountain enthusiasts have been sidetracked for years by the Cascade Range to the west and the solitary Idaho and Montana wildernesses to the east. But Interstate 84 cuts right through Baker City and its valley flanked by the Wallowa Mountains and Blue Mountains. Views of both ranges can be had from the second-floor windows of Baker City’s Main Street.

Downtown Baker resembles a sort of Western-American Havana. Blocks of century-old stone buildings house retail on the sidewalk level and apartments above. Twelve-foot ceilings trimmed in ornate woodwork and illuminated by enormous windows speak to the city’s former days as a booming gold town.

Now, through those same windows, Andrew Bryan sees Main Street and the Blues and Wallowas as potential for another boom, a tourism and arts boom. Already, many spaces have been remodeled into cafes, pizzerias, food markets, a book store, chocolate shop and restaurant, wine bar and gallery, and a historic hotel. The former Carnegie Library has joined many other restored Carnegies around the country as a community arts center where a potting studio, theater, dance studio, and gallery allow for classes, workshops, and working spaces for local artists.

Bryan works with the Baker City Development Corporation in an effort to rebrand the city as “Base Camp Baker.”

A successful completion of the BMHT will play a large role in Base Camp Baker’s goals. Don Chance, City Planner for Baker, sees the trail as not only a great escape for locals and visitors, but also as an economic engine for Baker and the numerous surrounding towns linked by the trail.

“We’re creating this system as an economic development strategy for the region,” says Chance. “We hope to create a lot of small business opportunities for the hamlets and ranches along or near the route. This economic development objective also helps the trail user’s experience; you’re still hiking and mostly solitary, it’s just a lot more convenient and comfortable for you.”

Chance and his wife have spent many vacations in Europe, especially Great Britain. They have logged hundreds of miles on the well-developed trails there.

“The English have about 140,000 miles of trail,” he says. “You could drop me anywhere in England and say that I have to get to lands-end at the southern tip or the north end and I could do it by foot on trail systems. The English see their trails as a mechanism to use, support, and preserve the rural and agrarian landscapes.”

But it’s not just a feel-good nature experience. The system also generates $12 billion a year and supports 245,000 full-time jobs. And it’s all-inclusive. Because of its varied lengths and segments and the proximity to towns and services, anyone from ultra-fit long-distance ramblers to casual day hikers can enjoy the outdoors.

“In addition to introducing this style to the American people,” says Chance, “we’re hoping to appeal to that European market of hikers accustomed to the rambling, hut-to-hut experience. And there’s also the cultural appeal of the American west. Ranching life and rugged mountains and small hamlets capture the imagination of many foreigners.”

Imagination is at the root of the Blue Mountain Heritage Trail. The forest service roads, old primitive trails, and horse-pack routes have long existed in the Strawberry Mountains or Eagle Caps or Blues. But it takes the vision and native knowledge of people like Hughes, Hentze, Chance, and others to connect the dots. The next great American trail, like most well-built legacies relies on the past to inform a bright, adventurous future.

According to the grocery store shelf, it is Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue season. The original swimsuit issue cover girl (1964) lives in an old church in the middle of downtown Halfway. Halfway is a town of about 400 people in northeast Oregon at the base of the Eagle Cap Wilderness. During the Silicon Boom the townspeople changed the name to Half.com. It did not last long and they eventually sold the town signs on eBay. Read more...